30 najboljših nasvetov za jesensko fotografijo:bistveni nasveti za fotografiranje
Od napovedovanja jesenske barve do eksperimentiranja z ICM, razkrivanja okostnjakov in iskanja zlata, Tracy Calder ima 30 nasvetov za izjemno jesensko fotografijo
30 najboljših nasvetov za jesensko fotografiranje
1. Poiščite red v kaosu
Ko snemate gozd, je lahko težko razbrati vizualni smisel iz kaosa, ki vas obdaja. Za poenostavitev prizora poiščite skupine dreves, ki so lepo ločene, tako po okvirju kot od spredaj nazaj. Kjer je možno, se izogibajte snemanju iz kotov, ki omogočajo prekrivanje debel, in izberite eno drevo »junak«, okoli katerega se vrti preostala kompozicija. Prav tako je lahko koristno, če iščete ponavljajoče se oblike, črte in vzorce.
Slika:Ross Hoddinott
2. Ne bodite sramežljivi
Nekatere drevesne vrste kažejo vedenje, znano kot "sramežljivost krošnje", kjer se vrhovi ne dotikajo povsem, kar ustvarja fotogenične vrzeli v krošnjah – to se pogosto zgodi pri drevesih iste vrste in so ga opazili pri črnih mangrovah, japonskem macesnu in nekaterih vrstah evkalipt. Če imate srečo, da ste priča temu pojavu, se povzpnite na hrbet, usmerite fotoaparat proti nebu in se lotite dela! Če niste, lahko še vedno dosežete osupljive posnetke s krošnjami, tako da ležite, gledate navzgor in delate prizor, dokler se kompozicija ne zdi prava.
Slika:Tracy Calder
3. Eksperimentirajte z orientacijo
Sčasoma mnogi razvijemo fotografske navade – nekatere od teh so lahko koristne in postanejo del našega osebnega sloga, druge pa nam lahko preprečijo eksperimentiranje in napredek. Ena od navad je združevanje določenih predmetov z določeno usmerjenostjo kamere:glive kot navpičnice, pokrajine kot vodoravnice itd. Čeprav to pogosto lahko deluje, je pomembno, da včasih opustite to navado in raziščete vse možnosti.
Slika:Tracy Calder
Slika:Tracy Calder
4. Praznujte žetev
Jabolka, robide, buče, hruške in okrasne buče so jeseni v sezoni, zato kar najbolje izkoristite to obilno letino in se preizkusite v fotografiranju hrane ali tihožitja. Lahko obiščete lokalno tržnico, kupite tisto, kar vam pade v oči, in to posnamete kot tihožitje ali pa dokumentirate postopek priprave in uživanja. Ali pa posnemite dogodek žetve, kot je dan stiskanja jabolk, praznik žetve itd.
Slika:Tracy Calder
5. Eksperimentirajte z ICM
Jesen je odličen čas za eksperimentiranje z ICM (Intentional Camera Movement). Če premikate fotoaparat, medtem ko je zaklop odprt, lahko dobite čudovite, impresionistične slike, ki dajejo čudovit občutek lokacije. Preden začnete, poskusite ustvariti predstavo o svojem umetniškem namenu. Fotoaparat lahko premikate na različne načine:premikate ga lahko navpično, vodoravno ali diagonalno, vrtite fotoaparat ali pa ga morda preprosto premikate na nepravilen način. Očitno bo čas, v katerem je zaklop odprt, neposredno vplival na rezultat, zato morda začnite pri 1/2 sekunde in od tam naprej gradite. (Če snemate pri močni dnevni svetlobi, boste morda morali uporabiti filter ND, da vsilite počasnejšo hitrost zaklopa.)
Slika:Ross Hoddinott
6. Povej zgodbo
Večina nas pozna podobe divjih živali, ki sporočajo zgodbo – veverice, ki nabirajo orehe in svoj plen zakopljejo pod zemljo, ali škorci, ki nad zapuščenimi zgradbami ustvarjajo osupljive predstave – toda če pogledate dovolj natančno, imajo zgodbe tudi rastline, glive in drugi bolj statični subjekti. povedati. Velika rastlina, ki se nagiba proti manjši, je lahko na primer videti kot starš, ki varuje otroka. Poiščite te zgodbe in uporabite trdno tehniko, da jih izvlečete.
7. Poiščite okostnjake
Skeletni listi so lahko čudovit motiv za fotografiranje v zaprtih prostorih, ko se vreme poslabša. Morda se boste odločili, da jih posnamete na svetlobno ploščo (majhna obrtna različica bo opravila delo). V divjini je lahko težko najti popolnoma ohranjen listni skelet, zato razmislite o tem, da bi ga "izdelali" doma - na YouTubu so videoposnetki, ki vas popeljejo skozi postopek. Lahko poskusite osvetliti tudi druge rastline s fotogeničnimi strukturami.
Slika:Tracy Calder
8. Polarizator
Uporaba polarizatorja pri fotografiranju jesenskega listja lahko zmanjša bleščanje na listih, okrepi naravne barve in prereže meglico. Preprosto vrtite ta filter, dokler ne dosežete želene količine polarizacije.
9. Filter nevtralne gostote
Filtri ND zmanjšajo količino svetlobe, ki doseže senzor vašega fotoaparata, kar omogoča počasnejše hitrosti zaklopa – to je idealno za fotografiranje ICM ali ko želite vodo zmanjšati na mehko zamegljenost.
10. Svetlobna podloga
Ko je vreme preveč mračno, da bi šli ven, poskusite fotografirati prosojne predmete na svetlobni plošči. Uporabljam crafters desko, znano kot CutterPillar Glow, ki ima tri različne stopnje osvetlitve LED.
11. Preverite madeže
Če fotografirate jesensko listje od blizu, poskrbite, da bodo primerki, ki jih izberete, popolni. Preglejte jih za morebitne raztrganine in madeže – kar je s prostim očesom videti kot drobna znamenica, bo na končni sliki videti povečano in zelo moteče. Podobno preverite robove okvirja za elemente, ki odvračajo pozornost od motiva – trave, vejice in moteče barve lahko ostanejo neopažene, ko se osredotočate na glavni motiv.
Slika:Tracy Calder
12. Poiščite naravne okvirje
Z drevesi, zmanjšanimi na preproste, skeletne oblike, lahko debla, kraki in veje postanejo odlične naravne naprave za uokvirjanje. Ne glede na to, ali snemate slap, pokrajino ali umetniško strukturo, kot je skulptura, lahko naprave za okvirjanje usmerijo gledalčevo oko v sliko in ustvarijo večji občutek globine. When you’re using this compositional tool, it’s important to make sure that the framing device has a natural connection to the main subject and does not distract from it.
Image:Ben Hall
13. Ease the burden
Obtaining a worm’s-eye view of plants and detritus can be uncomfortable, but you can ease this by using a foldable sitting mat and/or waterproof trousers. Just as wildlife shots gain greater impact when you get down to an animal’s eye level, it’s a good idea to imagine plants and fungi have eyes and do the same! For shots like this I like to use a beanbag, although I’ve also taken a child’s swimming armband to seriously boggy places.
Image:Tracy Calder
14. Try a portrait
We’ve all seen pictures of children throwing autumn leaves into the air and watching them fall to the ground like confetti. We’ve also seen pictures of couples walking down wide, tree-lined paths huddled together against the chilly air. These might be photographic cliches, but with some pre-planning there are plenty of opportunities to create unique portraits that make the most of this season’s attributes.
You could try shooting contre-jour (into the light), for example, or maybe take advantage of directional shafts of light as they fire between gaps in the trees. In addition, use colour theory to plan outfits and props – orange and green are considered complementary colours, for example, so maybe pair a green jumper with orange leaves.
15. Watch the weather
Overcast days are great for autumn photography because cloud cover reduces contrast and makes leaf colours appear rich and saturated. The absence of direct light on foliage also reduces glare. (Remember to exclude the sky where possible as this tends to be white and featureless on overcast days.)
When the wind speed rises above 10mph, leaves and flowers leap about, which makes macro photography quite a challenge, so unless you want to intentionally include blur in your photographs, check the forecast first. (You’ll also want to pay close attention to the weather if you’re hoping for fog or mist on a morning shoot.)
Whether you’re hoping to shoot in mist, overcast light, low wind or raking light, a good weather app is invaluable. Try AccuWeather, which features up-to-the-minute reports.
Image:Tracy Calder
16. Do your research
Being able to identify what you’re photographing has several advantages:firstly, it helps you to find similar subjects and species in the future – fly agaric toadstools often thrive under birch trees, for example, which narrows things down – secondly, it helps you to label and caption your images, and thirdly the more you know about a subject the more it will inform the way that you photograph it. There are plenty of printed guides out there, but online apps can be particularly helpful for identifying subjects in the field.
Image:Tracy Calder
17. Emphasise texture
Peeling bark, weathered wood and the spiky cases of horse chestnut seeds make for wonderful autumnal subjects, but to emphasise their texture and form you need the right kind of lighting. Strong, directional light is preferable, so plan your shoot for early or late in the day when the position of the sun will result in strong side lighting.
Image:Tracy Calder
18. Beanbag
When you’re shooting subjects close to the ground, a beanbag can provide great support. Bags can be purchased filled or unfilled, with lining or without – try Wildlife Watching Supplies.
19. Artist’s colour wheel
An artist’s colour wheel can help you to plan outfits and props for an autumn portrait shoot. Orange and green work well together, as do blue and yellow.
20. Revisit old venues
You may have shot a certain landscape hundreds of times, but the chances are that if you haven’t photographed it in autumn then you’ve probably been missing out.
21. Search for wildlife
While many birds fly south during autumn, whooper swans and many varieties of duck, geese and wading birds spend the autumn/winter in the UK. It’s relatively easy to get frame-filling shots of swans at wetland centres such as Slimbridge where birds are given food at set times. When it comes to mammals, red deer are a firm favourite. You might decide to capture a deer silhouette in the evening when the sun is low in the sky, or perhaps a cloud of breath leaving a stag’s mouth on a chilly morning. (The British Deer Society has published an excellent Code of Conduct on its website with advice including using a lens with a focal length of 300mm or more – www.bds.org.uk.)
Image:Ben Hall
22. Think in multiples
Many DSLRs now have an in-camera multiple exposure function. As a result, combining two or more exposures in one image has never been easier. You can usually combine a ‘live’ image with one already stored on your memory card, which results in plenty of opportunities for getting creative. Autumn is a great time to experiment with this technique because you can combine colourful abstracts with shots of more structural subjects such as skeletal trees.
23. Introduce movement
Reducing running water to a silvery blur, while surrounding foliage remains sharp and full of colour, is a nice way to introduce contrast and order to otherwise chaotic autumn scenes. In order to do this, you might need an ND filter to force a slow shutter speed. (If you are shooting on a dull day or at dawn or dusk you might not need the filter). Mount your camera on a tripod and start with one second or longer. You could also try a similar thing with leaves moving in the breeze and a static element such as a tree trunk or rock to create contrast.
Image:Tracy Calder
24. Mist opportunities
At this time of the year, warm water in the air cools rapidly, causing it to change from gas to tiny visible droplets, in other words, mist. These conditions don’t last long, so you will need to check the weather forecast the night before and head out before the sun rises and it burns off. Scenes dominated by mist often contain a lot of highlights, so consider adding a stop or two of exposure compensation to stop the camera from being fooled into under-exposing the scene. Look out for layers, bold shapes and objects which reveal clear outlines.
Image:Ross Hoddinott
25. Get reflective
With leaf colour ranging from fiery reds to golden yellows and intense oranges, autumn is the perfect time to shoot painterly reflections in rivers, lakes, ponds and puddles. Autumn colour is triggered by changes in day length and night temperature, so the beginning of this spectacle can vary from year to year. There are groups on Facebook that share up-to-date information on leaf colour and conditions in specific areas so check before you travel.
26. Search for gold
Natural light just after sunrise and before sunset is ideal for autumn shots. During this ‘golden hour’ the light is warmer (as measured on the Kelvin colour temperature spectrum) with plenty of yellows, oranges and reds. It’s a great time for shooting landscapes and bringing out the rich spectrum of colours that we often encounter at this time of the year. To ascertain exactly when the golden hour will occur you can use an app such as The Photographer’s Ephemeris or Helios Magic Hour Calculator.
Image:Ross Hoddinott
27. Arrange a flat lay
Shooting objects directly from above can lead to refreshing images that tell the story of a location or season. Chefs say, ‘What grows together, goes together’ and it’s something that can be applied to this type of photography too. If you find some attractive berries, for example, look around to see what else is growing nearby. Are there leaves or brambles that might look good in the composition? When it comes to arranging your treasures, imagine that you are completing a jigsaw – choose a ‘hero’ object and place it in the middle then work on the corners and edges before filling in the gaps with pieces of secondary importance.
Image:Tracy Calder
28. Telephoto lens
The British Deer Society recommends using a lens with a focal length of 300mm or more for photographing deer. The Canon EF 100-400mm f/4.5-5.6L II USM lens would be ideal.
29. Multiple exposure mode
The Canon EOS R5 has an impressive in-camera multiple exposure function. With this setting you can automatically combine between two and nine different exposures in one image.
30. Get shooting early
Once the autumn colours set in, be sure to capture them quickly. All it takes is one big storm for them to blow off the trees and the opportunity to pass.
Autumn Photography – Essential Gear
Warm clothes
Standing around in the wilderness while the sun is low in the sky can be chilly work, so make sure you wrap up warm. Particularly as you are likely to be standing still for a long period of time to get that perfect autumn photography snap.
Build up the layers and include waterproofs for when the skies invariably open.
Wellies
Getting the right angle for your composition can often require standing on ground that is less firm, such as a boggy field – or even in the middle of a stream.
By donning a pair of wellies you can ensure your feet stay warm and dry, no matter where you venture on your autumn photography adventures.
Gloves
If you’re taking pictures your hands are constantly exposed to the elements – instead of nicely tucked away in your pockets – so can very quickly get cold. You need a pair that will still allow you to operate your camera while keeping you warm.
Consider fingerless pairs or thinner thermal types – some manufacturers, such as Lowepro, even produce specialist photo gloves for this purpose.
Torch
As the light fades it can become difficult to find buttons on your camera or even spare cards inside your camera bag, so have a small pocket torch on you. It can also be handy to light the way on your walk back to the car.
Tripod / monopod
Long shutter speeds are needed to create a large depth of field, and at dusk or dawn especially you’ll need a steady tripod to avoid camera shake. Chances are that the light is going to drop faster than you’d expect, so ensure that you have some camera support for low-light photography. If you’re serious about your autumn shots, make sure you bring the sturdiest tripod you can carry.
Macro lens
Some of the best images taken in autumn feature the tiny details of nature, so don’t be afraid to pack the macro lens. A macro lens will allow you to focus right in on the detail and capture some stunning colour and texture, making it perfect for plant life and the autumn colours. So make sure you keep one in your kit bag.
Wideangle lens
This is the most useful lens for your autumn shots because it gives you a nice wide view with the option of a vast depth of field. For APS-C cameras a 10-20mm is ideal, while full-frame users might want a 24mm prime.
Filters
Filters allow you to control the tonal range and bring it within a more even range. By using graduated ND filters you can darken a bright sky, or with solid ND, slow a stream of water into a blur.
Waterproof cover
When the rain does come down you usually have two choices:put your camera away or get it wet, but with an all-weather cover like the Kata E-690, you can keep shooting whatever the weather.
Tracy Calder
Ex AP-staffer Tracy Calder is a photographer and writer who co-founded Close-up Photographer of the Year (CUPOTY) in 2018. Earlier this year she was awarded a Gold medal from the RHS for her Plant Scars series. Her work has been exhibited at The Photographers’ Gallery, the National Portrait Gallery and the Saatchi Gallery. To see more, visit Instagram @tracy_calder_photo and www.cupoty.com
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