Kako sestaviti prenosni nizkotonski zvočnik

Kako sestaviti ohišje s prenosnim nizkotoncem

Potrebujete podpolje, vendar ne želite porabiti veliko denarja? V tem članku razlagamo, kako sestaviti prenosni nizkotonski zvočnik, ne da bi potrebovali vsa draga profesionalna orodja.

Seveda boste potrebovali nekaj orodij, kot so vrtalnik, vbodna žaga in nekaj drugih nastavkov, vendar je to najcenejši način za izdelavo ohišij nizkotonskih zvočnikov po meri iz nič.

Postavitev pravega subboxa je izjemno pomembna, saj lahko dramatično vpliva na izhod nizkotonca. Biti mora prave velikosti in celo vrata imajo lahko različne učinke, če jih postavite na različna mesta.

V tem članku vas vodimo skozi celoten postopek izdelave prenosnega nizkotonskega zvočnika. Preden pa začnemo, če želite zgraditi zaprto ohišje, lahko sledite korakom z rahlim razlikovanjem.

Sestaviti ga je skoraj na enak način, seveda pa boste potrebovali manj kosov MDF-ja in dejansko ga bo lažje sestaviti.

Stroški za vaše dele bi morali znašati približno 30 USD in ne bi vam vzelo več kot eno uro, da vse skupaj sestavite, ko imate vse pripravljeno doma.

Torej, glede na vse povedano, poglejmo, kako sestaviti lasten prenosni nizkotonski zvočnik po meri.

Orodja, ki jih boste potrebovali

• Električni vrtalnik
• Sestavljanka
• 2" lesni vijaki
• Brusni papir
• Lepilo za les
• Silicijevo tesnilo
• 2 zavezujoči objavi
• Svinčnik
• Preproga za dušenje zvoka
• Preproga ohišja zvočnikov (izbirno)
• Lepilo (neobvezno)

Kako sestaviti prenosni nizkotonski zvočnik

Določite velikost ohišja, ki jo potrebujete/želite

Ko iščete globokotonec, bodite pozorni na velikost ohišja, ki jo priporoča proizvajalec. Prostornina škatle (kubični čevlji) vam pove, kako veliko mora biti vaše ohišje za največjo zmogljivost podvodnika.

Vsak proizvajalec globokotonskih zvočnikov bo ponudil najmanjšo in največjo velikost ohišja nizkotonskega zvočnika in ne bi smeli zgraditi podohišja zunaj teh smernic.

Če niste prepričani o natančni velikosti ohišja nizkotonskega zvočnika po meri, ki ga nameravate izdelati, pojdite na ta kalkulator za ohišje nizkotonca in vnesite svoje podatke v spletni kalkulator. V zavihka »Subwoofer« in »Port« »Box« dodajte čim več podrobnosti in izračunal bo popolno velikost vašega ohišja globokotonskega zvočnika po meri.

Je odlično orodje in bo celo oblikovalo resnično prilagojeno ohišje nizkotonskega zvočnika, v katerem lahko zamaknete luknjo za namestitev nizkotonca in namestite vrata na katero koli stran, ki jo izberete.

Na sprednji plošči je možnost dvojne debeline. Priporočam to, saj bo vaša škatla močnejša za držanje globokotonca na mestu.

Ko vse svoje specifikacije vnesete v kalkulator, ga bo oblikoval za vas z izrezi velikosti, ki jih potrebujete. Najboljše od vsega pa je, da vam bo vaš dizajn prikazal v 3D.

Odnesite mere svoje škatle v trgovino s strojno opremo, da dobite kroje

Ko ste zadovoljni z načrtom in merami ohišja nizkotonskega zvočnika, opravite meritve izrezov in pojdite v trgovino s strojno opremo po MDF ter druga orodja in nastavke.

Kalkulator dodatne škatle vam bo povedal optimalno debelino MDF, ki bo približno ¾". Kjer koli okoli te debeline bo popolna, vendar ne bi šel tako nizko kot ½", ker bi bilo to pretanko.

Če greste v Lowes ali B&Q v Združenem kraljestvu, vam bodo najverjetneje odrezali boke po meri. Če ne, ga boste morali sami razrezati na velikost. V vsakem primeru vedno kupite nekaj več, saj boste potrebovali vsaj nekaj rezervnega lesa za delo.

Pripravite robove plošč in narišite obris postavitev plošč in vrat

Ne glede na to, ali vam plošče odrežejo v trgovini s strojno opremo ali ste to naredili sami, se morate prepričati, da so robovi lepi in ravni. Preverite vse in morda pobrusite vse puhove, ki imajo robove, ki štrlijo ven.

Zdaj je čas, da narišete postavitev sprednje, zadnje in stranskih sten vaše podohišja in stene s prestavo. Narišite obris na spodnji plošči, da bomo vedeli, kje izvrtati predluknje.

Izvrtajte predhodne luknje skozi zgornjo in spodnjo ploščo

Najprej se prepričajte, da imate vedno, ko vrtate, spodaj nekaj odpadnega MDF-ja, da boste vanj vrtali namesto v delovno mizo.

Ko na notranji strani spodnje plošče narišete obrise vseh plošč, vzemite zgornjo in jo natančno poravnajte z dnom ter oba izvrtajte s svedrom za predhodno luknjo. Na ta način je hitreje in dobite luknje za vijake na povsem istem mestu na vrhu in na dnu.

Nato na zunanjo stran zgornje in spodnje plošče izvrtajte grezilo, da vaši vijaki ne bodo štrleli, ko jih vrtate. Prepričajte se, da ste izvrtali vse luknje v zgornji in spodnji del, in ko končate, čas je, da jih obrusite, da ne bodo štrleli ostri delci.

Privijte in zlepite razdeljene plošče skupaj

Zdaj je čas, da izvrtamo luknje ob straneh, kamor bomo privili vijake. Zdaj, ker to delamo z MDF, je pomembno, da izvrtamo vodilne luknje v rob čim večjega premera.

To je zato, ker je MDF precej šibek pri vrtanju v robove in če so vaši vijaki nekoliko večji od vodilnih lukenj, ki jih izvrtate, lahko MDF poči. Vijak mora biti le nekoliko večji od lukenj – dokler se vijaki nekoliko oprimejo in lepilo, bo prileganje varno.

Najprej bi morali izdelati dva dela vaših preklopnih sten. You should already have your pre holes drilled in place. Now put the four screws in on the outside of your panel ready to be drilled through, then run some wood glue down the edge of the other piece.

When you have it all lined up, drill the four screws in tightly. It’s best to drill the 2 outside screws in first so you don’t go out of line as you drill them in.

Once the ported walls are secured, you should fill the countersunk screw holes with a filler. You should also make sure the L-shaped interior edges of your sub box are rounded as much as possible.

The rounder the ported wall is the smoother the soundwaves will be able to travel. When this is done you can leave the ported wall until you have the outside edges and bottom secured together.

Now Fix The Rest of Your Panels as You Build Your Custom Subwoofer Box

Now you’ve got your ported panels ready, it’s time to build the side panels together and then fix them to the bottom panel.

To do this, you need to line up the bottom piece with each wall (one at a time), where it will sit. Then drill through the pre-holes and down into the left, right, front and back wall edges, where the screws will go.

Now you can start fixing the sides together. First, get the left and back – run some glue all the way down the joint and then line them up perfectly, put the screws in and then drill the screws in tightly. Any excess glue that protrudes from the joint, just wipe it down with your finger and this will help seal the joints further.

As you fix all panels together, run some silicon caulk down each edge to secure each joint. Do this with every panel joint.

Now do the same with the right and back so you now have 3 pieces glued and screwed tightly together.

Now it’s time to screw the bottom on. Again, make sure it’s turned around the right way so you can put the bottom piece on top of the 3 walls (this makes it easier to drill the screws in). Then put all the screws in the bottom so they’re ready for when you drill them into the sides.

Then run some glue down the three edges that you’re fixing together, sit the bottom on top of the 3 sides and screw all screws into each pre-hole and make sure they’re all tight. Again, run your finger down the joint to wipe away any excess glue.

Now you can do the same with the L-shaped ported piece, always making sure you wipe away the excess glue.

Now, do the same with the top. This should be screwed and glued onto the side and ported edge so you now have a closed subwoofer box with the ported gap on the front to the side.

Cut Out Wire Terminal Connection Points

Many people go with a terminal cup to wire a subwoofer up, but I don’t recommend these. They’re made of thin plastic and air will get out of your sub box if you use them, so I don’t recommend using them.

Instead you should use 2 Binding Posts for your connectors. For this you should drill 2 holes into the back of your subwoofer box.

The 2 holes should be slightly smaller than the diameter of your binding posts, and then you need to thread the binding posts into your back panel and secure them in tightly.

Drill the holes as close as possible to where your speaker wire terminals are in your subwoofer. And if the wires are to sit on the base of your enclosure, it’s a good idea to stick some sound deadening material under them so you dampen the rattle.

Cut The Subwoofer Mounting Hole on The Front Panel

You should have everything together, except the top and your mounting hole where the subwoofer will sit in your custom box. Now it’s time to cut the mounting hole in your custom subwoofer box.

You could do this before you build all your subwoofer box together, but unless you have a professional set up, you will need a clamp and some space under the front panel to make it possible to cut the hole out.

The first thing you need is the actual center point of your front. To do this, get a straight edge so you can draw diagonal lines from all four corners to the opposite corners. The meeting point of these will be your center point.

Drill a small hole in the center point, so you can drill your compass template into this to get your perfect circle.

Now you need a spare piece of thin cardboard that’s longer than 50% of your cutout diameter. My Kicker 43CVR124  CompVR has an 11” cutout diameter, so I will use this as an example.

In your spare piece of cardboard, pierce 2 small holes that are just over half the length of your cutout diameter. Mine is 11”, so my 2 holes are 5.55” apart.

Now drill a screw through one hole into the center point hole that you just drilled in your sub box. And with a pencil piercing through the other hole, move your cardboard around in full circles, so you draw an 11.1” circle on the front of your sub box.

*You can do this with a compass if you have one large enough.

Now, measure your circle to make sure it’s exactly the size of your cutout diameter. If it isn’t you must have drilled the 2 holes in your cardboard the wrong distance.

Next, drill a large enough hole close to the edge of your circle (on the inside), so you can get your jigsaw inside.

Now with your jigsaw, you need to cut right around the inside of the circle you have drawn. It’s important not to cut exactly on the line as this might end up being too big, and you can always shave more off if it’s too small.

Once you’ve cut the hole, sand it down so you don’t have any rough edges. Then clean out the insides with a vacuum cleaner so there are no loose wood shavings.

Time To Test Your Math and Carpentry Skills

Now it’s time to test your math and carpentry skills and sit your subwoofer in to make sure you have the right size mounting hole for your subwoofer. And that’s it you’re now a master at building a subwoofer boxes.

Basically, that’s how to build a ported subwoofer box. You can finish the exterior if you like. The countersunk screw holes don’t have to be filled on the exterior, but if you paint it, it would be a good idea to.

Or if you want to do the best job possible, you could cover the exterior with some vibration reduction carpet. This will ensure you get the best sound from your newly built sub box.

Installing Your Newly Built Subwoofer Box

You should really know where you intend to install your subwoofer box, and this obviously depends on the type of vehicle you have and the space you have available.

Wherever you intend to install your sub box, it’s best to put some sound deadening material under the bottom so it’s sitting on some.

Also, if the back or any side of your subwoofer box is tight against a wall of your vehicle, put some sound deadening material between your box and car interior. This will ensure you cut out the vibrations, and increase the clarity of your bass from your new installation.

All Done!

Having read through this step-by-step guide you now know how to build a ported subwoofer box. Of course, the steps to building a sealed subwoofer box are the same, but you’ll need less timber and it will be easier to do.

As long as you go to the Sub Box Calculator and put the correct specifications in, you can’t go wrong for your panel cutouts.

It can be a little awkward when you’re first putting cutouts together, but as long as you make sure the joints are exactly matched, your new custom subwoofer box will come out perfect.

And the best thing is, now that you know how to build a subwoofer box, you can build them for your friends and make some extra cash!

Have you built your own custom sub box? If so, how did it go? Please share your story in the comments section below to help anyone intending to do it in the future.